Sometimes the mountain gods just aren’t with you. With one aire playing host to an Alpine TractorFest, and the other closed to traffic beneath the debris of a winter rockfall, my only option was to dust my wallet off and seek refuge in the Taninges municipal campsite. It may have been one of the most beautiful places I’ve stayed. And it had trees. I hadn’t been able to escape from the relentless sun in over ten days, and I picked a spot so shaded that my solar panels didn’t even function.